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Author Archives: Teri J Pieper

While we were at Crooked Tree, we had opportunities to tour some Mayan archaeological sites. They were generally referred to as ‘ruins’ but that doesn’t seem like a good way to describe them. Remains of a lost civilization? They were hardly ruined.

Lamani was once a major city of the Mayan civilization, occupied as early as the 16th century, BC. It continued to be occupied up til the 17th century AD. The word Lamani means submerged crocodile. It sits on the edge of a large lagoon of the New River in northern Belize. The amount of labor that went into these structures is nearly inconceivable. Before the building began, the jungle would be cleared and the land flattened and covered with a limestone surface and then the towering structures were created. The Mayan civilization was very divided. Most of the people were poor and did the building and produced the food for the powerful leaders. According to our guides, the powerful people were also differentiated by being tall and healthy and long-lived. The workers were very short and malnourished and died young.

Most archaeological work at Lamani began in the 1970’s. Only a small section of the site has been unearthed. It is estimated that there are around 800 more structures hidden in the jungle. We saw three major pyramids and a ball court.

To get there, we were driven west from Crooked Tree to a dock on the New River where we met our guide, Emir and got on a boat that took us to Lamini. Emir is of Mayan descent and proved to be an excellent boat handler and knowledgeable guide. It was a good two hours to get to the site with frequent stops along the way to study birds that he found for us.

Originally we were to leave Crooked Tree by 8 am in order to get to Belize City to catch our water taxi out to Half Moon Caye. However, plans change and it was much later when we arrived at the dock. That meant a rougher crossing during an already windy day. Later, our guides told us that our ride was one of the roughest rides they had ever experienced. It is 55 miles from Belize City to the caye and the ride takes a solid two hours. We sat near the back of the boat surrounded by coolers of food and big jugs of water. Some people were able to sleep on the boat.

We were traveling pretty light with only carry-on baggage so I had to limit the amount of camera gear I could take. That meant I had no super zoom or camera with a long lens. So my bird watching was pretty intense but my bird photography was not. At Crooked Tree we had an opportunity for an early morning, three hour birding tour by boat. We were treated to countless birds, many of them lifers for me. We were lucky to see five Jabiru Storks! They are considered endangered mostly due to habitat loss.

Here are a few distant images of some interesting birds.

Our first major destination was the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary. In Belize, the Belize Audubon Society (BAS) manages many protected areas – places that we in the US might consider to be National Wildlife Refuges or National Parks. BAS seeks to create a balance between people and the environment. Crooked Tree is a wetland of international significance giving homes to waterfowl, waterbirds, shorebirds, raptors and reptiles including crocodiles and iguanas among other wildlife. One of our guides had recently seen a jaguar cross the causeway that goes to the island. We were not so fortunate but I wonder if a jaguar watched us at some point.

We stayed at the Bird’s Eye View Lodge overlooking the lagoon that surrounds Crooked Tree Island. It is a family-owned and operated business, built in 1995. Accommodations were comfortable and the food was good. The guides and drivers were all highly knowledgeable and eager to share their knowledge and experience with us. On the drive from Belize City to Crooked Tree, the driver discussed the human history of the country and pointed out interesting sites.

It was the dry season and the water was shallow and receding in the lagoon. We saw many people fishing for tilapia and other warm water fish. Many of the trees were dropping leaves.

We learned a bit about agriculture in Belize. Much of the food is produced by Mennonite communities. Sugarcane is a major crop. Before the cane is cut, the fields are burned to remove the dead leaves and also to, hopefully, drive out or kill the poisonous snakes. The cane is cut by hand by mostly immigrant workers from Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras who are paid very little for a hard days’ work. Most of the sugar cane goes to the production of rum.

The Bird’s Eye View Lodge was a stepping off spot for birding tours and also visits to Mayan ruins. A person could easily spend a week there enjoying that region of Belize. I was not ready to leave after three full days.

When it’s winter here, it’s frequently very, very nice in other places – places where there are exotic birds, tropical flowers and clear turquoise water. I was lucky enough to visit one of those places recently. I returned home this week to singing Red-winged Blackbirds (a sure sign of spring) and more new snow. Yesterday we received another five inches of wet heavy snow. And I came down with a head cold. It’s hard to believe that just a few days ago I was enjoying the warmth and humidity of Central America with my long-time good friend, Kim. This trip is the beginning of the celebration of one of those big milestone birthdays for both of us. It was my husband’s idea and part of it was a gift from him. Many thanks to Ken for the good idea and the gift!

Our first stop was Belize City, the former capital. It is a mix of new and old and rundown and downright ruined. We found a pleasant enough walk along the seashore although we were disappointed by the amount of trash we saw.