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Tag Archives: island expeditions

Half Moon Caye covers only forty acres of dry ground. There is no electricity except when the generator runs in the evening. Our tent had a kerosene lamp and we used headlamps to get around after dark. Unlike at home, there is no prolonged period of dusk and dawn – just twelve hours of darkness and twelve hours of daylight.

So how did we pass the time? Days were busy with activities like snorkeling and kayaking and birdwatching. We often had talks on the island’s natural history. One evening our guides entertained us with drumming and dancing and stories of the Garifuna people’s history (it was not a happy story for the most part). We had wonderful meals prepared from fresh ingredients and our cooks always came out to describe the food for us. Most of the other guests were retired Canadians although two couples were from the US (Chicago and Pennsylvania) and one fellow was from the UK. Maybe three people had heard of Winthrop. They were mostly urban folks except for a couple from Nelson, BC.

We learned that coconut palms are not native to the Caribbean. They were originally planted and then drifted from island to island. And they are invasive. So some of the coconut palms were being cut down on the caye in order to preserve the native habitat preferred by the birds.

Half Moon Caye is a place straight out of a movie with turquoise clear blue water, coconut palms, tropical birds, sandy beaches and beautiful marine life. Even though we planned this trip a couple of months earlier and had plenty of time to study and learn about the place, it was still pretty unbelievable. And now, just a little over a week after leaving, it seems not quite real.

Half Moon Caye is a Natural Monument and is part of the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve. Like Crooked Tree, it is also partially managed by the Belize Audubon Society in partnership with the Belize government.

The Island Expeditions camp is comfortable and relaxing. Our weather was not as ideal as it could have been. Steady winds most of the time wreaked havoc with my sleep. The tents tended to make a bit of noise – well, they made more noise than the surf so maybe more than a bit. However I was able to overcome the lack of sleep with plenty of relaxing and enjoying the gorgeous setting.

On another day we had a tour of the Altun Ha Mayan temples. This site is nearer to Belize City and easily accessible by car or bus. It is in more of a park-like setting than Lamini and adjacent to the community of Rockstone Pond. The flattened area that had a limestone platform similar to Lamini, has been planted with grass because the tourists frequently slipped on the wet limestone. Our guide, Anne Marie showed us through the visitors’ center and told us about the history before showing us around the site. She didn’t accompany us to the pyramid tops but waited patiently in the shade down below.

A ten pound solid jade head in the form of Kinich Ahau, the Sun God was found at Altun Ha and is now under lock and key at the Central Bank of Belize. One of the pyramids is featured on the logo for Belikan beer, the most popular beer in Belize.

Originally we were to leave Crooked Tree by 8 am in order to get to Belize City to catch our water taxi out to Half Moon Caye. However, plans change and it was much later when we arrived at the dock. That meant a rougher crossing during an already windy day. Later, our guides told us that our ride was one of the roughest rides they had ever experienced. It is 55 miles from Belize City to the caye and the ride takes a solid two hours. We sat near the back of the boat surrounded by coolers of food and big jugs of water. Some people were able to sleep on the boat.

We were traveling pretty light with only carry-on baggage so I had to limit the amount of camera gear I could take. That meant I had no super zoom or camera with a long lens. So my bird watching was pretty intense but my bird photography was not. At Crooked Tree we had an opportunity for an early morning, three hour birding tour by boat. We were treated to countless birds, many of them lifers for me. We were lucky to see five Jabiru Storks! They are considered endangered mostly due to habitat loss.

Here are a few distant images of some interesting birds.